If you’ve ever spent time driving in the snow, then you’ve probably realized that front- or all-wheel drive is a much better choice for traction than rear-wheel drive (RWD). And if you haven’t driven in the snow, you’re probably curious why so many people recommend against RWD vehicles. We’ll explain to help you understand why rear-wheel drive isn’t the best choice for the snow.
It’s Not So Bad
To start, it’s important to understand that moving to a snowy climate with a rear-drive car isn’t exactly the end of the world despite what some snow-belt residents might tell you. In fact, advancements in electronics (such as with traction control or stability control) and tire technology have made it possible to own a rear-drive vehicle in a snowy area and not encounter too much trouble. But we still don’t recommend it — and here’s why.
Weight Problem
The biggest problem with rear-drive cars in snowy weather is one of weight. Namely, front-wheel-drive cars tend to have the weight of the engine over the drive wheels, which keeps those wheels firmly planted on the ground and allows front-wheel-drive vehicles to push through snowy weather without too much tire spinning.
Rear-wheel-drive vehicles don’t usually have the same benefit. Instead, rear-wheel-drive vehicles typically have an empty trunk or cargo area directly over the rear wheels. The drive wheels struggle for traction because they don’t have as much weight on top of them. The result is that rear-drive cars sometimes spin their tires at times when front-drive vehicles wouldn’t have any issues.
Fishtailing Is Possible
Because rear-drive vehicles have their drive wheels in a lighter part of the car than front-drive vehicles, they’re more prone to fishtailing. In this situation, a driver turns the wheel during acceleration, and the car’s rear wheels start to push it into a difficult spin. This isn’t as likely to happen with front-wheel-drive vehicles, whose wheels tend to have more traction.
As a result, we suggest that anyone with an unfamiliar rear-wheel-drive vehicle in a snowy climate should drive very carefully on snowy or icy roads, especially when turning. We also suggest visiting a snowy parking lot and slowly learning your vehicle’s limits so you don’t find them out on the road when it’s too late.
Don’t Mix Performance and Snow
The last reason that rear-wheel drive isn’t optimal for snow is that most modern rear-wheel-drive vehicles are performance cars such as Porsches, Mustangs or Camaros. Meanwhile, most common vehicles — Toyotas, Hondas, etc. — have converted to front-wheel drive due to improved efficiency and better year-round capabilities.
Of course, performance cars and snow isn’t a good mix. Most performance cars use summer tires that are designed for use in warm weather. Most performance cars also have low ground clearance — not good for the snow — and lots of power, which makes them hard to manage in low-traction situations. Indeed, many drivers have problems with rear-drive vehicles in the snow because the cars they’ve chosen just aren’t designed for snowy weather.
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Editor’s Note: This article has been updated for accuracy since it was originally published.
Just put a few hundred pounds in your trunk if you have a RWD vehicle. It worked for decades and it still works today!
So a Tesla with the batteries/weight in back should be ok? I want one and the RWD is exactly why I am struggling to pull the trigger.
Have a 2009 Crown Victoria cop car with the rear wheel drive a lot of power what kind of weight do I need to put in the back to give me traction thank you
Sandbags! If you ever get stuck and slipping you can always lay some of the sand under your tires/wheels and it should help you get some traction as well! Dual purpose!
I drive a rear wheel drive genesis coupe to be precise.. I do not pack the trunk… good set of winter tires does wonders.
What a joke? A rear wheel drive with a limited slip differential will go in the snow where front wheel drive doesn’t have a chance. There is one reason car manufacturers build cars with front-wheel drive and one reason only. It is cheaper to build. That’s it. Front-wheel-drive is cheaper to build. Traction control is also a joke because it dethrottles your engine and applies brakes when you’re trying to get momentum going up the hill.
I’ll agree to that. I have a steep hill that I have to go up to get to work, on snowy mornings if I don’t turn traction control off about half way up the hill. About 10 feet front the top my car comes almost to a stop and I have to quickly turn traction control off and rip it.
Well, the LSD can be applied to front axle as well. The article is explaining it in general terms without additional features added.
Well, the LSD can be applied to front axle as well. This article is explaining it in general terms without additional features added.
About to inherit a2003 Suburban with RWD, a Florida car, but I live in New England. Car is well maintained and low mileage for it’s age. Do I need a snow tires, sand in trunk? Should I not spend the money to have it hauled up here?
Certainly snow tires if it snows where you are. You’d have to try the weight in rear but I imagine the weight discretion of that SUV is fairly front heavy so I imagine it could help.
I just want to bring to everyone’s attention that it’s all about prep. I live in northwest IN and drive a 1999 Dodge Dakota every year. Good tires, sandbags, and throttle control are all you need, plus if you get it stuck it just needs some rocking in order to get unstuck unlike awd which will need pulled out, which is why I stick with my Dakota over my suv in winter.
Throw some sandbags in the trunk.
I’m driving a RWD Lexus 306HP for close to 3 years in a Quebec climate. If you learn how your vehicle works and know it’s limitation, you will be successful, even during a snow storm like the big one we’ve got last winter. You also need the best winter tires. I’m using Nokian R2, but they are not the only one on the market. Don’t go with the best selling and marketing stuff. The other question you should look at is how many days per winter where the whether is really really bad. Maybe 2 or 3, So you will enjoy 36x days having driving agreement. A good deal. I also drove XWD car during winter and I’m still more than happy with my choice. The bad news now, Lexus is not selling this RWD in Canada, but only in the US.
I’m thinking of getting a pair of those Nokia r2s for my genesis coupe.
Buying 2005 Dodge Dakota has rwd just wondering how good they are on snow and ice I always had 4 x4 and I know that any vehicle doesn’t go on ice so just seeing if the truck that I am getting will be OK on snow
Rear wheel drive is FINE in the snow. Cars with stability control (ESC) won’t fishtail and it will be nearly impossible to lose control unless you are actively trying (Even then you might not be able to cause the car to lose control).. ESC was made mandatory on all cars as of 2012, and most had it before then.. So the fishtailing argument is invalid. Don’t believe me? Go try it in the snow with any RWD car made past 2012. ESC is the most significant safety tech since seatbelts, yet most people have no idea it exists. Today’s RWD cars have 50/50 weight distribution too, old ones didn’t.. Front drive cars are usually 60/40.. So really only 10% better traction, and that’s only on level ground. Up hill the weight shifts to the rear, which is better for a RWD car going up the hill. This is why if you can’t get a FWD car up a snowy hill, it does better in reverse. Also the tires today, even all seasons, are WAY better in the snow, as long as you get ones rated highly in those conditions on Tirerack.com. So let’s stop spreading the myth that RWD is bad in the snow.. It’s just not true. It was a myth created when the only RWD cars out had Summer tires, a heavy front end with an iron block engine, and an open rear differential. Today’s RWD are a completely different animal.
Hi there mine is an older car a 2002 BMW with rear wheel drive any suggestions how I can stop skidding please
Excellent details!
is Dynamic Stability Control w/Dynamic Traction Control (DSC) good on a car with RWD or is it not?
Can you tell me which way would be better to park in my garage? I have a 2005 Cadillac SR-X and we have a gradual uphill climb to get out of our driveway. I think I got RWD but not sure.
And would I need to put and bags in the rear storage area?
Just bought this car and was told it was AWD but from what I can figure out I think it is RWD.
Of course the real wheel drive cars fishtail. I’ve experienced it myself on icy roads, in situations where it’d never have happened with a FWD
I agree and disagree. Yes, there are huge improvements in RWD vehicles and tire technology has really improved, BUT there’s only so much two rear wheels/tires can do compared to a 4WD or even better an AWD (All wheel drive). No, having a rear wheel drive vehicle is not the end of the world but let your rear wheel drive car or truck sit out in a parking lot in Northern Wisconsin sometime and let the snow fall about a foot around your vehicle and see how well your rear wheel car or truck does compared to those around you. If you get occasional snow then go for a cheaper RWD…but if you’re moving to a climate with long winters with lots of snow then sell your RWD and get an AWD. Your RWD in a cold weather, snowy climate won’t sell in snowy climates. People in the market for a vehicle in snowy climates simply do not want a RWD.
Makes perfect sense I live on a steep hill and I what your talking about.
I have 2015 BMW 3 series.i couldn’t even get out of my drive way.i was stuck between road and my drive so i had to dig the snow off to get my car back in the drive
Disagree Jack. Had a FWD Jetta and RWD Benz in Boston, both snow tires. The Benz had more trouble getting off the line and l got stuck way more often than in the Jetta. Even a car with 60/40 F/R will still have better FWD tradition. Only exception is perhaps a car with a 50/50 weight distribution.
Come to think of it, how would you recommend counteracting the understeer you’ll experience when turning the wheel on a low-traction surface?
use the E brake and whip the rear!
Traction can break at the back, even with FWD; what would you recommend to drivers of these cars to bring the car back into line when they won’t be able to manage the oversteer the way they’d be able to with RWD?
You can compensate for understeer in a front wheel drive car by applying light/moderate braking and throttle simultaneously. Braking shifts the weight to the front (bringing the back around in order to make a corner) and the throttle will allow the front wheels to “crawl” on through, controlling the induced oversteer. This is one method used by rally drivers.
Think you give 90% of drivers too much credit.